Kitschy Christmas Letter from Portugal

This year has been different for us. We are no longer nomads and have a new collection of challenges settling into residency in Portugal and experiencing life as an immigrant. Cancer fears have weighed heavy, killing some of my mojo I admit. We have had a year worth mentioning, and some of our challenges may read comically; I am going to give it a go. Following is a kitschy Christmas Letter.

Resident Challenges

We moved to Portugal physically at the end of March. But not until end of November have I received my official residence card. Mark has had a quicker track. He is set with a residence card, driver’s license, health number and has gotten the latest vaccine boosters. I may never be a legal driver here, and still waiting to be recognized in the health care system to get flu jabs, etc. This despite a year in and out of the health facilities here. The bureaucracy in Portugal has not been undersold. Every little thing is a major challenge even for native speakers. Add the language barrier, wow. Just wow!

There is no way I can convey in words what an accomplishment having these “cards” in hand really entailed. I’ll try one. Skip it if you want; it is boring to write, must be really so to read. 

An Example of Immigrant Hurdles – Driver’s License

To get a drivers license requires a physical. We have a private doctor, went there. But to get the physical results to the Portuguese DMV (IMT here), we need a health care number. Despite having private health insurance and going to private clinics and hospitals, only the public system does flu jabs and some other procedures. Ok, so to go to the public system we need a health number. To get a health number we need a Attesdado which is a certification that we live in the district. 

To get the Attestado we need two witnesses that are citizens in our district; we know no one. Six trips to the parish office, and a couple bottles of wine later, strangers have been our witnesses and we have the attestado. With the Attestado we can get a Numero de Utente (health number). 

Mark got his Numero de Utente with ease (if by ease you consider 6 trips to the office for the Attestado and 3 trips to the health center to get the Utente Number.) But because it also requires a residence card, I could not get mine. My appointment for residence card was assigned three months after Mark’s and at an office that takes another 60 days to get the cards out. So Mark is five months ahead of me in this process. 

Progress, Or Lack Thereof

I just got my resident’s card. Yea accomplishment. I took it and everything else to the local health center. A couple hours and a box of chocolate later, I had my N. de Utente. So I can apply for my driver’s license and get a flu jab.

I submitted the materials for my driver’s license, the same materials Mark submitted, including residents card, medical exam and a certified copy of our driving records from the USA. We got these last year when we went to San Francisco to apply for the resident’s visa. Yes, forgot that, we had to travel back to the USA in order to officially leave the USA. 

Well, my driving record was kicked back. Either it is too old, or the requirements have changed since last March and these records need to be apostilled. Language barrier makes this unclear. Ok, put that aside for the moment, lets get me the latest covid booster. Went to the location where jabs are jabed. Mark got his; they could not find my N. de Utente in the system, so I did not. Evidently it takes a couple weeks for the records to get “on the system”. So put this aside for a while too. 

Soon however, I will either have these things, or give up. Even money on both.  You can see why we get so proud whenever we accomplish the smallest item.

Cancer Fears

I am receiving great care in Portugal for my on-again, off again cancer diagnosis. My oncologist and I are in constant contact over email no matter where in the world we go. I have had 4 CAT scans and 2 MRI’s monthly and tumor marker tests. All those tests in total have cost me barely over €100 ($105). The uncertainty about my health has definitely put a damper on travel plans and even put into question where we wanted to move and what type of residence would work best. I am pleased to announce I am officially cancer free for one year, and won’t know anything different for six more months when I have my next tests.

Christmas for Us

We are really having a last minute Christmas because we were set for chemo up until recently. We have the first Christmas tree in five years. It is artificial, kind of skinny (perfect for small quarters). On offer cost €20 at the grocery store. Another €20 in cheap plastic bulbs and we are in business. This store sells pools, christmas trees and trimmings are not a surprise. Obtaining quality ornaments and trimmings was elusive. This is one of the things about Portugal; most goods are poor quality and utilitarian. High end stores are few, and when you find them, they are high end indeed. Middle of the line goods are absent here. Spain too. 

For the first time in five years I am wrapping gifts. If the presents look vaguely like food storage containers, it is because that is what I am using for boxes. Genius sustainable idea. Would be more genius if they were more square. 

We own very little and need even less, so Christmas gifts are a challenge. We are living in a holiday home, equipt with most necessities, the next apartment will be too. The few things we are particular about, like coffee making, we are set. I have lots of choices for a cup of coffee.

We have always enjoyed Kahlua at Christmastime. I have looked and looked, but cannot find it here. So I tried making it. It looks ok, but tastes a little strong. I have not been sleeping and finally realized why; it doesn’t just taste strong. Next time, I will do it with decaf.

Traditional Christmas in Portugal

In Portugal, the greeting is Boa Festas or feliz Natal. The main Christmas celebration is on Christmas eve. Traditional meal is bacalão (cod). Odd choice really since bacalão is also common every other day of the year. They joke that there are 365 recipes; one for every day of the year. Further, the origin of bacalão is not Portuguese, it comes from when the vikings invaded and settled in Portugal. In a country bounded by water and known for fishing, they eat dried, salted cod from Scandinavia for Christmas Eve. Christmas day they eat meat, but it is not the main feast. Everything is closed Christmas eve, but not necessarily on Christmas. By midday Christmas day, everything is back to normal. I have been told not to expect Boxing Day sales on the 26th either. 

Travel

We have managed several weeks of travel around Portugal. Most revolving around our required appointments, assigned all over the country. I think they do this on purpose to keep us expats spending money as tourists. Portugal has a long history and vast beauty, so this has not bothered us a bit and we have a lot more to do. This year we hit the big destinations: Lisbon and Porto and the tourist destinations of Sintra, Aveiro (Portugal’s venice), the affluent expat community of Cascais (expats and Rinaldo that is), Douro Valley for wine tasting, and most of the algarve beaches. Next year we plan to use all of our allowed four months outside of Portugal to travel. Norway, Iceland, Egypt, Jordan and a return to Morocco are all on the agenda. Plus travel within Portugal to some of the lesser known gems. Did you know there is skiing in Portugal? And a national park that boasts wild horses? Stay tuned. 

Mark and I wish all of you and your families and pets a wonderful holiday and joyful new year.